中晚唐女性服饰新变与诗词中女性身体审美转向

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中图分类号：I207.22；K242.06 文献标志码：A 文章编号：1674-2346（2026）01-0064-07

The New Changes of Women's Costume in the Middle and Late Tang Dynasty and the Aesthetic Shift of Women's Bodies in Poetry

YANGJiawen

（FacultyofLiberalArts，NorthwestUniversity，Xi'an，Shaanxi710127，China）

Abstract：Costumeculturereflectssocialaesthetics.Therefore，fromthepoeticdepictionsofcostumeincertainperiod，wecan explorethesocialandculturalbackgroundofthattime，thementalityofthepeople，andtheaestheticorientationundertecombied influenceoftetwo.AftertheAnLushanRebellion，therewasasocialmentalityinthemiddleandlateTangDynastythatwas quitediffrentfromthatintheearlyandprosperousTangDynasty.Theaestheticperceptionoftefemalebodyalsounderwenta certaindegreeoftransformation.Thistransformationwasmanifestedinwomen'scostumesasanincreasedobjectificationofwomen，astrongpsychologicalrejectionandaversiontotheHupeople，areturntoconservatismandthepursuitoforthodoxyanda pursuitofextravagance.Therefore，fromtheperspectiveofthebodybyexaminingthedescriptionsinpoemsoftheicalparts ofwomensuchastheneck，chest，arms，andwaist，aswellasthedesignfeaturesofwomen'sostumesinthecollar，sleeves，and skirtsduringthemiddleandlateTangDynasty，andcomparing them withhistoricalrecords，tombmurals，poteryfigurinesand otherarchaeologicalobjectsofthesameperiod，wecananalyzethenewchangesinwomen'scostumesandthetransformationof bodyaesthetics under the change of social mentality in this period.

Keywords：Tangpoetry；costume culture；body perspective

中晚唐时期的女性与初盛唐时期的女性服装相比产生了新的变化，总体呈现出领口逐渐开阔、出现抹胸式服装、袖子宽阔、裙摆宽长且裙腰降低等特点。（剩余8773字）